Communion with the Dead
Life lessons from El Día de los Muertos.
A Clockwork Orange
Circling Glasgow.
Learning in Kalkaji
“There are a lot of aspirations in these narrow alleys.”
Without a Trace
What was lost when Chinese Camp burned.
Diminuendo for a Dream
Fauré’s Requiem, Geneva, 1992.
Unlikely Camper
Brothers and allies.
The Milan Affair
“Naturally I suggested that Scott just pee out the window.”
Lying to the Irish
But failing to pull the wool over anyone’s eyes.
After the Rain
Elsewhere | Asheville after Helene.
Barça Days
Elsewhere | “Rooting for Barça is the best thing there is.”
House Keeping
A joyful crossing (eventually).
Path to a Burning
Elsewhere | “Hit me up,” she said. “I don’t want to go to the doctor.”
Ghost Grove
“Not a single tree survived for miles.”
Living Lou
Making a home in a Louis Kahn house.
Way Station
Among the Ukrainian refugees in southeastern Poland.
Orchard Bounty
“The back-lit, bright green canopies were gilded, too—with bright orange balls.”
At the Crossroads
A 7,000-mile circuit around the country seeking answers to a question about to loom over me.
My First Salmon
Casting back.
The South
“one magnolia holds my childhood”
Bringing up the Dead
“We’d entered without a map.”
American Window
Images from an “endlessly complex country.”
Discomfort Zone
A living lesson in multiculturalism.
Into the Mist
“To walk through layers of enchantment and legend.”
Goodbye to All That
A reluctant—and roundabout—return from Antarctica.























